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Path: bloom-beacon.mit.edu!senator-bedfellow.mit.edu!faqserv From: Pamela Greene <pgreene@optics.rochester.edu> Newsgroups: rec.pets,rec.answers,news.answers Subject: Ferret FAQ - General Information [monthly posting] Supersedes: <pet-ferret-faq/general_763480846@rtfm.mit.edu> Followup-To: rec.pets Date: 11 Apr 1994 20:40:16 GMT Organization: University of Rochester, but it's not their fault :-) Lines: 1592 Sender: pgreene@optics.rochester.edu (Pamela Greene) Approved: news-answers-request@MIT.Edu Distribution: world Expires: 25 May 1994 20:39:01 GMT Message-ID: <pet-ferret-faq/general_766096741@rtfm.mit.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: bloom-picayune.mit.edu Summary: Answers to Frequently Asked Questions and general information about the care and behavior of pet domestic ferrets. Should be helpful to both prospective and current ferret owners. Keywords: faq pet ferrets general X-Last-Updated: 1994/03/15 Originator: faqserv@bloom-picayune.MIT.EDU Xref: bloom-beacon.mit.edu rec.pets:7773 rec.answers:4837 news.answers:17912 Archive-name: pet-ferret-faq/general Last-modified: 15 Mar 1994 Version: 1.1.1 FERRET FAQ -- GENERAL INFORMATION Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene (pgreene@optics.rochester.edu) This document is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene. See section 0.3 for authorship information and redistribution rights. In short, you can give it away, but you can't charge for it. This FAQ is still a work in progress. Please treat it as such, and feel free to send corrections, comments, and additions. I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I independently verify, all the information in this file. I have done my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way. For advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets. CONTENTS 0. *** About this FAQ *** 0.1> Goal of this FAQ 0.2> Credits and editor's notes 0.3> Copyright and redistribution information 1. *** Introduction to ferrets *** 1.1> Are ferrets wild animals? Why are there ferret permits and FFZs? 1.2> Should I get a pet ferret? What's good and bad about them as pets? 1.3> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? 2. *** Getting a pet ferret *** 2.1> Which color is the best? Male or a female? What age? 2.2> How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? 2.3> Do I need a license or permit? How do I find out? 2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret? 2.5> I just got another ferret. How can I introduce him/her to my old one(s) with the least trouble? 2.6> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/rabbit/ etc.) with the least trouble? 3. *** Things you'll need *** 3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret? 3.2> Do I need a cage? How should I set it up? 3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding. Should I? 3.4> What should I feed my ferret? 3.5> Should I give him any supplements? 3.6> What are good treats? 3.7> What kind of litter should I use? 3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? 3.9> Any suggestions on toys? 4. *** Basic ferret care and training *** 4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home? 4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? 4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? 4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip? 4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret. What should I be doing? 4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails? 4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? 4.8> Do ferrets travel well? 5. *** Things ferrets say and do *** 5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something? 5.2> My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? 5.3> Help! My ferret is going bald! 5.4> Is he really just asleep? 5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean? 5.6> What games to ferrets like to play? 5.7> What else should I probably not worry about? 6. *** Problems to watch for *** 6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for? 6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets? 6.3> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them? 7. *** Where to get more information *** 7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area? 7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list? 7.3> Is there any other information available on-line? 7.4> What are some of the books available? 8. *** Revision history of this file *** - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 0. *** About this FAQ *** 0.1> Goal of this FAQ A number of people have begun work on comprehensive discussions of all sorts of ferret behavior, medical problems, and advice. This FAQ is not intended to replace any of those. However, there seems to be a need for an "intro" FAQ which covers many of the basic questions in a fairly light way. That is, this is intended to be a FAQ in the purest sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List, rather than a comprehensive guide to ferret ownership. If you're relatively new to ferrets, the idea is that you'll read this guide (or one like it) first, then go on to the more detailed guides. 0.2> Credits and editor's notes Contributions of individual respondents are noted by [begin XX] and continue until the next [begin XX]. Contributions may have been edited a little, for spelling or space. Anything I've inserted will be in square brackets [], and deletions will be indicated by ellipses in square brackets [...]. Credits: PG = Pamela Greene (pgreene@optics.rochester.edu) <-- me MW = Marilee Warner (rwarner@afit.af.mil) AK = Arlyn Kerr (lkerr@halcyon.com) RN = Rochelle Newman (rochelle%jackie@ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu) TC = Todd Cromwell (todd@statsci.com) NH = Nancy Hartman (hartman@cis.udel.edu) SC = Sukie Crandall (esc@ulysses.att.com) BW = Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM (williamb@email.afip.osd.mil) LM = Linda Mooring (lmooring@cadence.com) JG = [has not yet approved inclusion; may live in a FFZ?] 0.3> Copyright and redistribution information This document is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene. It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means, provided that it is distibuted in its entirety, including this notice, and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution. (For-profit dial-up services such as Compuserve and America Online are granted permission to distribute the file provided that no additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.) Those portions of this file written by others, marked with the initials of their respective authors as described in section 0.2, remain the property of those individual authors. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1. *** Introduction to ferrets *** 1.1> Are ferrets wild animals? Why are there ferret permits and FFZs? [begin PG] Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela putorius furo, are not wild animals. They were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 B.C. Ferrets have not been shown to establish in the wild if released; if yours got free it would likely die of dehydration or starvation within a few days. Unlike cats and dogs, ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and scavenge. In the past, and some still today, domestic ferrets were used as hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents. The ferrets didn't kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes and the farmers (hunters) killed them. This practice is now illegal in most, if not all, of the U.S. Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come from confusing them with their cousins the North American Black-Footed Ferrets, Mustela nigripes. Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild relatives of the domestic ferret. They live mainly in Wyoming and neighboring states, and they are an endangered species due to outbreaks of canine distemper and recent drastic reductions in the population of their main prey, prairie dogs. However, despite very similar appearances, the BFF is not even likely to be an ancestor of the domestic ferret, since the latter were first domesticated in Egypt and only brought to North America comparatively recently. Some people have also compared, or confused, domestic ferrets with weasels, which is rather like comparing a pet dog to a wolf; or with mongooses, which is more like comparing a cat and a squirrel. Neither gives much useful information. States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a variety of reasons, but by far the most common is the mistaken belief that they're wild animals and should be treated in the same way as squirrels or raccoons. In the face of overwhelming evidence, many of these areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations. 1.2> Should I get a pet ferret? What's good and bad about them as pets? [begin TC] If you love animals, and in particular love little playful critters, a ferret may be just right. Ferrets are small, cute quiet, playful pets about midway between dogs and cats in temperament. Their latin name is Mustela putorius furo; they are in the mustelid family, which is the same family as otters, minks, skunks, wolverines, weasels, etc. All of the mustelid family is born with scent glands at the base of the tail. The ferret is the only domesticated member of the family. [...] Ferrets are often described as kittens that never grow up, because they are very playful (they leap and dance joyously, with each other and you). You can train them to use a litter box. Some ferrets like to cuddle with you, and some prefer simply to be near you. They have very distinctive personalities. Ferrets are less destructive than cats, but love to get in and out of things, so if you keep them loose in a few rooms of your house, you must set things up so they can not hurt themselves or your articles (ferretproofing [see question 4.1]). The only negative thing is they tend to dig at the carpet a bit, but if they dig in a place you don't want (typically under a door), you can put down a strip of chicken wire or plastic runner under the door, and they won't dig much at that. You should be careful if you have small children, reclining chairs, or large aggressive pets. Small children and ferrets are both very excitable, and the combination might produce a crushed ferret [also see question 1.3]. Reclining chairs are death on ferrets, who like to crawl into them and go to sleep. Large aggressive pets may mistake ferret play for attack, or squirrel chasing dogs may try to eat your ferret (or get a nasty surprise when the ferret proves tougher than expected) [also see question 2.6]. [begin MW] Ferrets are inquisitive, busy, sneaky, fun to watch/play with, but also pesky, sometimes nippy [see question 4.4], and into EVERYTHING. Whether or not you get a ferret depends on your ability/desire to deal with some or all of these characteristics (which will vary from ferret to ferret). [begin PG] Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives as well. Like cats and dogs, they require a fair amount of care and training, especially at first (see question 4.4 on nipping, and 4.5 on litter-pan training). Most ferrets love to push things off of tables and shelves, which may be a problem if you like to keep fragile ornaments on low shelves. They steal small (and not so small!) objects and stash them under chairs and behind furniture. They love to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits. Accessible boxes, bags, and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging. Finally, many ferrets tend to scratch at the carpet. (See question 4.1 on "ferretproofing" your home.) Naturally, these traits vary from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common. If you're not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and your pet, a ferret may not be for you. [begin BW] It has been my experience that people are far less allergic to ferrets than other types of small animals. My wife is highly allergic to cats, and I am mildly allergic. Neither of us have ever had trouble with ferrets, and all of the people I know who are allergic to cats, birds, or rodents have no problems with ferret. [begin RN] [About allergies] Ferrets are small, and nowhere near as bad as cats in this regard, but from personal experience, people seem to have more trouble with ferrets than most other small animals, and even more than with dogs. [begin PG] If you think you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has one and check. I've lost the note, but one person wrote me to say she (he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try contact with females or neutered males as well. Also note that some people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals, but not to the animals themselves. Ferrets live 6-10 years, barring accident or serious disease. 1.3> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies? [begin PG] Like most people, I've only heard rumors about this -- which doesn't mean it hasn't happened. However, plenty of children have been bitten or attacked by dogs and even cats, yet people don't claim that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets. I'm sure the number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny fraction of the number wounded or even killed by dogs. Ferrets are unfamiliar to most people, though, so it's easier for them to make sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of rumored information. It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the proper way to handle pets. A living creature needs, and deserves, to be treated with more care than a toy. Ferrets in particular love to pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous response from an active ferret than from a typical cat. [begin BW] I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of these species tend to do a lot more damage. I have seen children require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret. But I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too. Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting hurt. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 2. *** Getting a pet ferret *** 2.1> Which color is the best? Male or a female? What age? [begin PG] As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than color or gender. Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have been bred from long-time pet stock. Basically, though, choose the color according to your own preference. There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male and a female. Males are generally considerably heavier, around 3-5 pounds (in the US; European ferrets seem to be a bit smaller) compared to 1-3 pounds for females. Males' heads are usually wider, which can give them a more cat-like appearance. Both genders end up around 15-18 inches long, plus about 6 inches for the tail. If you're getting an unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be higher than the cost to neuter a male. (Unless you're specifically planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets -- see question 4.3.) There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best for a new owner. Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be litter- and nip- trained (see questions 4.4 and 4.5), but they are larger and may have acquired bad habits, too. Kits are very cute, and their small size and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new owner, but they require a little more care and training and will become very active before too long. Question 2.4 discusses what to look for in a new kit. [begin MW] [Color] doesn't matter, although silver-mitts tend to be a little more obnoxious (translate: need more attention) than their dark footed friends. 2.2> How many should I get? All at once, or one at a time? [begin TC] One is fine (they don't require other ferrets to live, and will bond with you). Two is more fun, but a bit more responsibility. Many people seem to have five (or more), which may be more fun and responsibility than you want. You can always get more if you want more (and they take to each other just fine, usually). [begin MW] If you want the ferret to be YOUR buddy, get one. If you think you won't be around enough to keep him company, get two or three--the max number depends on your level of tolerance and the amount of time you want to spend cleaning litter pans. All at once, or one at a time? Either way, you'll have some fights. We've done both ways with relatively little problem. [begin PG] I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it you. There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time, too. I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going to get several. There's no problem mixing ferrets of either gender in any combination. 2.3> Do I need a license or permit? How do I find out? [begin PG] Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated, require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or be entirely illegal. This varies by state, county, and city. At the moment, the states of California, Massachusetts, Michigan and Hawaii are FFZs (ferret-free zones; i.e., places where ferrets are illegal), as are the District of Columbia, New York City, St. Paul (MN), and various other towns and counties throughout the U.S. This list is by no means complete, so check locally before you get a ferret. You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or veterinarians (recommended in that order). Note that some pet stores in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws. 2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret? [begin PG] Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper from small breeders (see question 7.1) with kits to sell or from people who want to sell older ferrets. In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude. You can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch and handle a group for a while you can tell a surprising amount about their personalities. Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of that soon enough. You can often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter, and there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the country as well (see question 7.1). This may not be the best choice for a new owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral problems. (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.) 2.5> I just got another ferret. How can I introduce him/her to my old one(s) with the least trouble? [begin MW] Limit exposure (give the new guy his own cage) for the first few days until he/she is accepted. Also, monitor interaction to prevent "getting to know you" scuffles and "I'm the head ferret" demonstra- tions from getting out of hand. [begin PG] Ferret play can look pretty rough, especially the kinds of dominance "arguments" an established ferret is likely to have with a new one. Generally ferrets won't actually injure each other, but careful supervision is required at first. To prevent biting, you can try spraying Bitter Apple (see question 3.1) on the new ferret. Keeping the new ferret separated, but in sight/smell of the old one (e.g., in a neighboring cage) can help speed familiarity, as can putting the new pet in the old one's cage or sleeping area while the other one's not there. Within a week or two they should get along all right and can share a cage, food dish, and water bottle. Of course, extreme cases do exist, but the longest I've read about new-ferret problems lasting is three months. 2.6> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/rabbit/ etc.) with the least trouble? [begin MW] For bird, goldfish, rabbit, or rodent type, introduce it as a meal. Seriously, these animals are the ferret's "natural" prey--you wouldn't introduce a cat to a mouse and expect them to get along, would you? As for a dog or cat, introduce the ferret by holding him for the other to smell, then put him on the floor and CLOSELY monitor interaction. If your dog tends to chase cats, you may not want to let him play with your ferret-- it all depends on the personality of your dog. I would guess the same would go for cats--I don't have any practical experience here. [begin PG] I don't have any experience in this area, but I've heard that ferrets get along with cats better if they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing to play. I've read about ferrets getting along with some birds, too, but extreme caution is advised. [begin RN] Ferrets and iguanas don't get along, either! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 3. *** Things you'll need *** 3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret? [begin TC] You will need: - ferret food [see question 3.4] - a food dish (one hard to tip) - a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle [see below] - a litter box with a large cutout or ramp in front [see below] - litter (little bb-size clay bits works fine) [see question 3.7] - bedding (or let them sleep around the house) [see question 3.3] - a cage (if you elect to keep them in one) [see question 3.2] - ferret shampoo (or johnson's baby or whatever) - a collar (toilet ball chain works great) and a little bell (so you can tell where they are, and so they look like a pet if they get out) [see question 3.8] - pet claw clippers [large human-nail clippers work fine too] - toys (ferretproofed) [see question 3.9] - a veterinarian. [begin PG] Also: - Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and question 3.5) - Bitter Apple or something similar (see below) - a box or basket to be a bedroom (see question 3.2) - a harness and leash (optional) (see below) Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements that nearly every ferret loves. (See question 3.5 about supplements, and 3.6 about treats.) Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid intended to stop pets from chewing things. You may want an H-type harness and a leash, and you will almost certainly need more than one litter pan, particularly if you have a large home. I've found a water bottle to be much more convenient than a water dish, since ferrets seem to love to play in, and tip over, water bowls. Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and for a travel cage or shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches). Make sure the sides of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over the sides of the pan. However, one side of the pan should be no more than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily. This is especially true for a young kit. 3.2> Do I need a cage? What kind? [begin PG] Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed (see question 4.1) room whenever they can't be supervised. This drastically reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages (caused by swallowing indigestible objects; see questions 6.1 and 6.2), injury, and escape. However, even if you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times, you'll want a cage at first for training (see questions 4.4 and 4.5), as well as for temporary use. Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but I think overall wire-mesh cages are better. Tanks are easier to clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the room. Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap. If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3 feet and 2 feet high. A second or third ferret could share that size cage. If you'll only be using the cage temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a vacation (see question 4.8), 1 X 2 X 1 feet is sufficient for one or two ferrets, perhaps three. For trips around town (also see question 4.8), a shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window works well. In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet. A ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or basket works well as a bedroom. Old towels make excellent bedding, as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits. (Also see question 3.3.) Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you. Hammocks made from old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys (see question 3.9) will also be enjoyed. Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or some other way. Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and rather intelligent escape artists. 3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding. Should I? [begin PG] In short, no. Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not recommended. Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example, rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe. Why take the chance? Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary. Even if you keep your ferret in a cage when you're not home, as many people do, you don't need shavings or corncob on the bottom of the cage. Ferrets are more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for sleeping, and perhaps another towel or a washcloth or two in the cage as a napping nook and part-time toy. Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they don't really have the option of using towels. We have two ferrets, and a whole basketful of old towels to put in their cage and favorite napping corners. 3.4> What should I feed my ferret? [begin PG] Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan Turkey & Barley. High-quality food may cost a bit more, but your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier. The key ingredient is protein, specifically animal protein, since ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough sustenance from vegetable proteins. The food needs to have at least 32% protein, and animal protein should be listed first in the ingredients. Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from neutering/descenting operations may need their food moistened with water for a week or two. Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day. Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and cats) need. Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine, which (according to the Iams label) is found naturally in poultry; many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well. Several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist. Probably the most widespread is Purina ferret chow. Apparently there was some problem with Purina chow in the past due to a lack of taurine. That has most likely been fixed, but I haven't heard anything more about it. In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one brand, is probably a good idea. Ferrets are known to be finicky eaters, and if the brand you've been using is suddenly unavailable, you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as edible. We give our pair a mixture of Iams kitten food, Science Diet Feline Growth, and ProPlan Turkey & Barley, on the theory that if one lacks something another may have it. (See questions 3.5 and 3.6 for comments on supplements, fruits, vegetables, and treats.) Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and let her eat as much as she wants. We've found that an 8-pound bag of dry food lasts two ferrets a few months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality food is not very great. [begin BW] Ferrets do very well on cat food, provided there is adequate taurine in the ration. I generally recommend the kitten foods until approximately 4 years of age, and then the cat foods, which have less protein for the "golden years." The effect of high levels of protein on renal function in older cats with poor kidneys is well documented - I see similar renal disease in ferrets, so it is my personal theory (and practice) to try to decrease the levels of protein in my ferret's diet as they get older. [begin AK] We've always used Purina Ferret Chow, recommended by our vet. It's not that easy to find, but supposedly is formulated especially for ferrets (although, for all I know, maybe it's just Purina Cat Chow with a different name on the box). We sometimes supplement that with a concoction called "Ferret Soup," made from chow, raisins, bananas, hard-boiled egg [yolk only -- see question 3.6] , milk powder, cod-liver oil, Brewers yeast, veggies, molasses, cottage cheese, and water. It sounds like a lot of work, but one blenderful batch lasts one ferret for 3-4 weeks (in the freezer). [begin MW] We swear by Science Diet Feline Growth formula. We tried a couple of the grocery store kitten chows but our ferrets pooped more and messier than with the Science Diet. We've just recently switched to the Maintenance formula, since our ferrets are "middle aged" (5 years old). [begin JG] If you intend to switch cat foods from brand A to brand B, buy some of brand B before you run out of brand A. Begin mixing B with A a little at a time until the contents run 50% A and 50% B. Then begin phasing out brand A until all they eat is brand B. 3.5> Should I give him any supplements? [begin PG] Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements. They are also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves them. The problem is, both of these contain vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in excess. No more than a few drops of either Ferretone or Linatone a day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give them any at all if you're using a good food. Signs of vitamin A overdose include hair loss and a dull coat. Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis. This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from fur swallowed during grooming. Even better, most ferrets seem to think of this as a wonderful treat, too. Although they don't have vitamin A, these laxatives can't be good in excess, so give them only in small amounts. 3.6> What are good treats? [begin PG] Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables such as bananas, apples, pears, raisins, and green beans. Although they're not thought to be necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt. Just be sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat his regular food to get the required protein. As with everything, too much of nearly anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats. Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be allowed to have much. This is especially true for young kits, since the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily cause them to become dehydrated. I'm told that goat's milk, available in some pet stores, is okay, but I haven't seen any verification of this. Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins, oatmeal, apples, anything with bran in it, and similar foods. Otherwise, try feeding your ferret pretty much anything, in small pieces. You never know what yours will consider a fabulous treat. I've heard of ferrets going wild for everything from spaghetti to blueberries. [start SC] When talking about Duck Soup and similar foods [mixtures of fruits, grains, and so forth intended to supplement ferret diets as well as serve as a well-balanced treat; see question 4.4 for an example] (many have been developed) it pays to specify hard boiled egg yolks instead of just saying "eggs". Many carnivores don't digest the whites well and I have never seen any research showing that ferrets can so till we know for sure ... Sugars can interfere with the acquisition of chromium from Brewers Yeast so it is best to give it at a time when sweets are not given. [begin RN] It's best to have several kinds of treats, so that you don't give too much of any one kind (practically all are bad in large doses). Ferrets are often hesitant about trying new things, though, so you may have to coax them a bit -- try putting a bit of Linatone on it the first time you offer it. Another treat suggestion -- puffed rice cakes. (taste like the styrofoam they love so!) Chocolate: most ferrets LOVE this, but DON'T let them have it. Most ferrets can probably handle small doses, but something in chocolate (I forget what) is fatal to ferrets in large enough doses, and I've heard that some ferrets are sensitive enough that even a small amount can be deadly. Best idea is not to chance it, and try and keep chocolate away from them. [begin BW] The chemicals in chocolate are xanthines, which can have a profound stimulatory effect. But small amounts are certainly not deadly. [Nevertheless,] I also do not recommend this as a treat. 3.7> What kind of litter should I use? [begin PG] Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter, due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners and dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it. The litter can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes problems. You may not want to take the chance. Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for ferrets. You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost more or less, and so forth. If your pet is used to one and you switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new litter with where he's supposed to go. 3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use? [begin PG] We've had great success with nylon kitten collars. We get the 8-inch size and poke an extra hole through the woven threads, then trim off the extra inch or so from the end. You'll want to be sure to leave enough to go through the ring after the buckle, and enough space for growth if you're sizing it for a kit. We found that the loose end just wouldn't stay in its ring, so our ferret had a tendency to chew on it and fray the nylon; we solved that problem by melting about a quarter inch of the flat surface of the collar in addition to the cut end. Not only does that keep it from fraying, it makes it a bit harder so it gets caught in the ring better. We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get caught. In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while occupying them with Ferretone. A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on a kit as young as 9 weeks. I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped hook for the tag rather than the split ring, since the rings have a tendency to loosen. Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar. You'll probably want to poke the S-hook directly through the nylon and put the bell and tag on the same hook, though, since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang down far enough to drag on the ground. Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar, although the first time we put it on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the jingly toy that followed her wherever she went. In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets. Ours have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are! 3.9> Any suggestions on toys? [begin PG] Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing (see question 7.2). Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily broken or swallowed, as do golf balls or large unshelled nuts (rinsed to wash off any pesticides). Cat squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up to chewing and easily squeaked. Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it doesn't affect them like it does cats. Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun to crawl through or nap in. Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic. Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe are popular too. Unfortunately, digging up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret; see question 4.1 for advice on preventing this. No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as well. Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or that might hurt your pet, well out of reach. [begin RN] Toys: Only get HARD rubber toys, not soft, spongy rubber -- the latter can be easily shredded, and the pieces eaten. For misc. toys, ferrets often love umbrellas (believe it or not!), cloth belts (from robes -- these are great for tug-of-war!), and tennis balls. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 4. *** Basic ferret care and training *** 4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home? [begin PG] Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and cabinets close securely. Ferrets love to worm their way into any little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a refrigerator, into a wall, or outside. Crawl around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor, especially in the kitchen and laundry area. Even holes inside cabinets (which are particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather sloppy) should be blocked, just in case. Also watch out for heaters or furnace ducts. You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and at least one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum foil, since most ferrets don't like to chew it. Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers. They can get onto a sofa, into a trash can, onto the second shelf of a set of bookcases (but not generally the third), into a bathtub, into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker, or over the two-foot gate you thought would keep them in the spare room (a three-foot barrier will probably do the job). They can also open cabinets, unzip backpacks, and climb into some drawers from underneath. Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside a cushion or mattress), rubber door stoppers, and anything else spongy or springy. Ferrets love to chew on that kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages. (See question 7.2 for symptoms.) Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous. Finally, once your home is done, bear in mind that your couch cushions and throw rugs may be hiding napping ferrets. Look before you sit! [begin RN] I think the best ferret-proofing tips I've ever gotten are: - get rocks to cover up the base of your potted plants -- you can still water them, as water will go between the rocks, but it prevents ferrets digging. - if your ferret is really clawing at carpet near a door, get a strip of plastic carpet-protector (with the little spiky things on the bottom) - don't forget to block off the space underneath cabinets (by the toe kick). Ferrets love to get underneath there, and you don't always know what rodent poisons previous owners may have put back there... and poison for mice and rats is generally not healthy for ferrets, either! [begin LM] I think [digging at the carpet] is only a problem if a ferret owner has carpeting under doors and if those doors are closed to keep the ferrets in a defined area. [...] I never had the problem when my ferrets had the run of the place. [Unfortunately, closet doors can also be a problem, but carpet runner works pretty well under them.] 4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when? [begin NH] IMRAB rabies vaccine - yearly, starting at about 6 months old. (This is the same rabies vaccine as is used for dogs and cats; your vet should have it on hand.) Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine - see below. (Fervac-D is ferret specific, so many vets may not carry it. Fromm-D is commonly used for dogs.) Kits should be vaccinated at 8 weeks, 11 weeks, and 14 weeks. But they should have at *least* a series of two shots, three weeks apart, with the last one when the ferret is older than 14 weeks. Then 1 booster shot yearly. Adult ferrets who have never been vaccinated, the shots are out of date, or the ferret is of unknown vaccination status, should receive a series of two [distemper] vaccinations, three weeks apart, then booster shot yearly. Note: although rabies is the more publicized of the two, the distemper shot is MUCH more important for your ferret's health. Also be advised that most states do not recognize the rabies vaccine for ferrets. The "official" studies on shedding time have yet to be done. So, even if vaccinated, your ferret will be destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were bitten (scratched, looked at cross-eyed) by him/her. BUT, the vaccination will most likely keep the person from reporting the ferret in the first place. And, it will protect your ferrets from getting rabies on the chance that they are bitten by a rabid animal. [begin BW] An extra distemper shot, in cases where a vaccination history is not known, will not hurt a ferret. Vaccinations is one area in which it is better to be safe than sorry. [begin PG] If you cannot obtain the ferret distemper vaccine, use a KILLED VIRUS vaccine that is NOT cultured in ferret tissue. 4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet? How about descenting? Declawing? [begin PG] In short: Yes, you'll need to spay/neuter. Descenting is a matter of opinion, and declawing should NOT be done. [begin MW] Unless you plan to breed them, [you need to spay/neuter them]. If you don't, the male will mark his territory by "sliming" it (rather gross if he decides your bare feet are his) and the female will go into heat and stay that way until she is bred or dead (from anemia). Most pet stores sell ferrets already fixed and descented. How about descenting? A good idea, this can be done at the same time you have your pet fixed. Ferret "spray" is not nearly as bad as a skunk but it wouldn't make a good perfume either. Your ferret will still have an odor, but descenting will prevent the "clouds" from rising, should your pet be startled. Declawing? Ferrets have dog-type claws. Have you ever heard of someone declawing a dog? [begin BW] It has been my experience that ferrets will also express their anal glands when amorous, and they may be amorous around people as well as other ferrets. [begin PG] There's a bit of debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or useful, and some belief that it's even harmful. It's bad for a ferret's health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be somewhat harmful when done at any age. Some people feel that the procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who aren't very frightened smell the same whether or not they've been descented. Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly distressed, but ferrets can't spray their scent as effectively as a skunk. Their scent also isn't as bad as a skunk's, and I'm told it dissipates in 15 minutes or so. There's no debate whatsoever about neutering pet ferrets. Neutering drastically reduces the odor of a male and makes him less aggressive (males in season may kill other ferrets, even females), and spaying saves a female's life. Likewise, there's no debate about declawing. Ferrets can't be declawed; it would cripple them. 4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip? [begin PG] Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip. A ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite, but young ones often don't know how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you. Ferret play includes mock combat, but ferrets have tough skin, so when they first begin to play with you they won't know yours is any different from their littermates'. A playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you need to discipline him. [begin AK] We used a method other people on FML have also advocated: whenever the ferret bites, you immediately flick its nose pretty hard and shout "NO!" Our vet told us to not be timid about this. [...] The message is you should do whatever you have to do to drum the lesson in. When we were training the ferret, we'd purposely stick our fingers or toes near her mouth, and flick her nose if she "took the bait." The good part was that in about two weeks she was completely trained, and in the following seven and a half years has never bitten anyone, even little kids in the park who stupidly stick their fingers near her mouth. And we can safely brush her teeth with a cloth-covered finger. [begin PG] The "nose flicking" described here was also advocated by the ferret farm where we got our second kit. It's the same motion you'd use to flick a bit of dust off your arm, or perhaps to play marbles (but with index finger rather than thumb). Like dogs, ferrets have sensitive noses, but they're quite sturdy; you're not likely to injure one. Be careful to hit the end of the nose, though, since if you swat the top you'll push the teeth further into your finger or toe. For people who simply cannot bring themselves to bap their pets, it's been suggested to carry a bottle of Bitter Apple around and spray it in the ferret's mouth while he's biting you. I'm not convinced this is any better, since Bitter Apple in the eyes is bound to sting. Positive reinforcement (giving treats) generally works better than negative reinforcement, and cage time can be an effective punishment when necessary. 4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret. What should I be doing? [begin MW] Limit the ferret's space. Give him/her and area just big enough for food, bed, and litterpan. Normally, the ferret won't mess his/her bed or eating area. Once he/she is using that pan regularly, increase the bed/food area. As for outside-the-cage time, when you first release your pet, follow him/her around and as soon as he/she starts backing into a corner, plop him/her in a litterpan. Another method is to carry the ferret directly from cage to litterpan and keep putting him/her in the pan until the deed is done. Something else that might help is putting a little old "deed" in a newly cleaned litter pan so the ferret is reminded where to go. Litter pans need to be fairly clean or the ferret may get finicky. Ferrets will pick their "potty corners" so pretty much all you have to do is put litterpans in those spots and your problem is solved. [begin JG] If you are having problems keeping your ferret from going in the corner, try placing wadded-up blankets or rugs there. Often the ferrets will not realize that it is still a corner. [begin PG] Positive reinforcement (treats and praise) can be very effective, and cage time usually works well as a punishment. "Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere. Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there is individual variation. Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident. In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate, though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do considerably better. At least the animals are small, so their accidents are pretty easy to clean up. Ferrets also tend to lose track of their litter pans when they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new house or room. 4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails? [begin PG] Most people like to bathe their ferrets pretty often, since it can help keep the odor down and they don't seem to mind it. Frequent bathing can cause dry skin, though, especially in winter, so be careful. Once every week or two should be okay, but switch to less often if you have problems. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit, playing and swimming around in the tub. The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to check her nails and trim them if necessary. If you have a helper, you can have him hold the ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one of his fingers. Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her occupied. If you don't have a helper, smear the ferret's tummy with Ferretone and lie her on your lap, on her back, her head toward your stomach. Poke her nose at the Ferretone and she should be so preoccupied with licking it up that she doesn't even notice what you're doing to her feet. In either case, cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it. Be careful not to nick the line or the toe, since in either case it'll bleed and your ferret will decide nail clipping is not a good thing. A handy supply of styptic powder will stop the bleeding; for a nicked nail-vein, one person suggested rubbing the affected claw in soap to stop up the blood vessel. Next you should check your pet's ears. If they seem unduly dirty, dampen a cotton swab with hydrogen peroxide and gently clean them. Once again, you'll find a helper holding the ferret to be indispensable. Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear. Yellowish ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of. Fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water. It should feel comfortable on your wrist. If you want to let your pet play in the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of swimming. Finally, bathe the ferret. Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears baby shampoo works fine too. Wet the ferret completely, either in one half of a double sink or in a tub. Lather her from head to tail; don't worry about her eyes if you're using a no-tears shampoo. Our ferrets both start to struggle at this point, which seems to be because they don't like hanging in midair while being washed. We let them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being washed, which calms them. Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water. Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle, depending on your own preference. I find it's easiest to keep the ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one hand while drying her with the other. You could also put your ferret on the floor in a towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a rowdy game of tousle and try to run away (see question 5.6). Once you've got her mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls, cage floors, milk cartons, and everything -except- the towel must be remarkably water-absorbent. You can also try using a hair dryer on its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that. [begin SC] When cleaning ears our own preferences depend on the ear health and sensitivity, but baby oil, or slightly warm water, or Tresaderm can also be used. Baby oil is also handy for "bathing" an ill or elderly ferret with weak skin without using water, or removing accidents stuck in fur. 4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks? How? [begin PG] Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around, roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk on a leash. To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when she falls into it, shout, "No!" The combination of the fall, the noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to staying on. Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn quickly. The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you teach her. Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile. One idea for getting your ferret's attention is to take away her food at night, then teach the trick first thing in the morning, using breakfast as a reward. Don't take away the water, though; with their fast metabolisms, ferrets can get dehydrated quickly. Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of it, or simply to please you. Usually there must be some kind of reward expected, though that could be anything from a lick of Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching. 4.8> Do ferrets travel well? [begin PG] Around town: Ferrets love going places. You can fix up a shoulder bag with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry them with you wherever they're welcome. Automobile travel: Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, as they scratch incessantly to get out. Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended, since they could get under the driver's feet or through some undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road. Since water dishes and bottles don't work well in a bouncy car, remember to stop and give them a chance to drink every hour or two. Airplane travel: Some airlines allow ferrets on board their planes, in under-seat cat carriers. There's almost always an additional charge. Sending your ferret in the cargo area is not generally recommended, largely due to problems people have had with temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel this way. Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I have no experience with that. Hotels: Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to call ahead and make sure. Legality: You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets have had, just in case. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 5. *** Things ferrets say and do *** 5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something? [begin MW] If he spends more than a few minutes playing with it (toys), if he "demands" another bite or grabs it from you (food), if he sits still for more than a few seconds (petting). Our ferrets have favorite toys, favorite foods and favorite scratching places. Our ferrets "chuckle" when they are having fun. 5.2> My ferret trembles a lot. Is that normal? [begin PG] Generally, yes. Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons. First, they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body temperatures. Second, they shake or quiver when excited or frightened. For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since everything is new and interesting. For older ferrets, a bath or even a good scolding could prompt trembling. If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make sure there's no cold draft around. (Ferrets can live fine outdoors, but indoor lighting can cause their winter coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside to need one.) If that's not the problem, check with a vet. 5.3> Help! My ferret is going bald! [begin MW] Can you spell shedding? Seasonal coat change [in the fall and spring] is normal, excessive baldness is not. Good nutrition is key. If you are feeding them a high quality food, you shouldn't have too much trouble. We have had experience with "tail rash" in our pets where they lost a lot of their hair on their tails. The vet gave us a moisturizing spray for their skin, and at one point, Dimetapp, but I think it was more a matter of waiting it out. [begin BW] [The "rat tail" rash which MW describes] is generally regarded as a consequence of stress, and appears to be more common in intact animals than neutered ones (the breeding season in itself is a time of great stress for ferrets.) The tail can go almost completely bald. Most ferrets regrow their hair in 2-4 months, but a small number never do. [begin PG] Baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal lesions in ferrets (see question 6.2). If it begins on the tail and progresses forward, eventually leaving hair only on the head and extremities, that's almost certainly the problem. See a vet immediately. Other common causes of baldness are a severe ear mite infection or overly dry skin from, for instance, too much bathing. Any unexplained hair loss, especially if severe or not associated with a coat change, should be checked out quickly. 5.4> Is he really just asleep? [begin PG] In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults. A two- to four- hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical. Ferrets sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up. You can take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're asleep. It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and sit, though. 5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean? [begin PG] Clucking, "dooking", or chuckling: Indicates happiness or excitement. Often uttered while playing or exploring a new area. Occasional sneezes: If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd sneeze too. Also, ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their chins, and sneezing can be a way of forcing some of the scent out so it can be rubbed on something. Whimpering/whining: Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement noise. It can also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match. Hissing: Frustration or anger. Screeching/loud chittering: Extreme fright or pain. This is your cue that it's time to go rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten itself into. It can also be a sign of anger. 5.6> What games do ferrets like to play? [begin PG] Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and so forth, with each other or with you. Ours love to bounce around on our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack each other through the throw rugs. If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your pants leg, he wants to play. An appropriate response would be to get down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance. Ferrets like to jump and climb. They're good at finding complicated ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging heights. Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try to jump down. Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most inaccessible location possible. Protect your keys and wallet. A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with an arched back. Clucking is common too. Dancing into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to just bounce off of such obstacles. Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing from side to side and rolling against everything in sight. Mainly they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general excitement from the bath and drying process (see question 4.6) too. 5.7> What else should I probably not worry about? [begin PG] Scratching: Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters. If you don't see any fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's probably not fleas, so as long as the skin isn't irritated or balding don't worry about it. Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear: This is a normal thing to do, especially after a bath. It helps spread the ferret's scent around. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6. *** Problems to watch for *** 6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for? [begin PG] NOTE: I am not a veterinarian. I haven't even owned ferrets very long. (Dr. Bruce Williams, denoted here by BW, -is- a vet and ferret expert.) The following is by no means a comprehensive list of symptoms of disease in ferrets. However, some of the more common problems are often accompanied by these symptoms. If you notice one of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet. ALSO: Ferrets are small. While they generally enjoy good health, any kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in only a day or two, so if you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately. - Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes, limp whiskers, etc. Symptomatic of a number of problems. Also see question 7.2. - Lack of bowel movement. If your ferret has gone longer than usual without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively, he may have an intestinal blockage. Certainly by the time it's been 24 hours you should go to the vet immediately. Note that a ferret can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage, since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated. [begin BW] More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a lack of food intake for some other reason. Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day. Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a little loose. Also look for string-like stools. Ferrets with intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very thin- like a pencil lead. But adequate ferret-proofing [see question 4.1] is much more important than stool-watching. - A swollen abdomen. Bloating may come from many problems such as heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals. [begin PG] - A painful abdomen. Could be any of several disorders, but the most common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser. Not all blockages cause abdominal pain, though. Also see question 7.2. - Change in "bathroom" habits. Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces or urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems. [begin BW] Changes in bathroom habits, in my experience, are most commonly seen with a change in the environment, which causes stress to the animal. [begin PG] - Lumps in the body or feet. These are most often associated with tumors, which may be benign or cancerous. They can also be a sign of an infection, or the result of dietary problems. Have any swelling or lump checked out. (See question 6.2 about vaccine reactions.) - Difficulty using the hind feet, lack of movement, awkward gait. Most often a sign of an adrenal or pancreatic tumor, or arthritis, in older ferrets. Could also be an injured back, the result of having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like. Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured. [begin BW] This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the spinal cord or those innervating the legs. In most of these cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness. [begin PG] - Overheating. Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all. They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of water in summer. Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is probably also a bit risky. [begin BW] Temperatures as low as in the eighties can be life-threatening to ferrets without shade or water. [begin PG] - Loose skin and dull eyes. Generally caused by dehydration, which is serious in such a small animal. - Unexplained hair loss. Not the usual seasonal shedding, which should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the tail is affected. Also see questions 5.3 and 7.2. - Seizures. It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of problem. Most often the result of islet cell tumors in the pancreas causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other causes too. See question 7.2. - Diarrhea or vomiting. Both of these are serious, since ferrets are easily dehydrated. Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of diseases. Ferrets do not generally vomit unless they're rather ill, although during shedding season they may "spit up" a bit due to hair in the throat. (See question 3.5 on helping to prevent hairballs.) - Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy. Yes, ferrets catch human colds and flu. They'll generally rest and drink a lot. A visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the cold looks bad or lasts more than a few days. [begin BW] - Tooth grinding. Almost exclusively abdominal pain. #1 cause - stress-associated gastric ulcers. 6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets? [begin PG] Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets, especially older ones. (Dr. Bruce Williams, denoted here as BW, -is- a vet and ferret expert.) * Intestinal blockages. Caused by eating something indigestible, such as an eraser, a rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized hairball (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck. Symptoms may include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation, bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others. Blockages may occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through the lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move around and produce only intermittent symptoms. Laxatone or a similar hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this (see question 3.5). Treatment is surgery, to remove the blockage. * Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands. Symptoms vary, including hair loss spreading from the base of the tail forward (also see question 5.3), lethargy, loss of appetite, and loss of coordination in the hindquarters. Often, however, a tumor will be present without showing any signs at all, so if your ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet should take a look at the adrenal glands as well (if time permits -- ferrets lose body heat very quickly in surgery). The left gland seems to be affected more often than the right. * Islet cell tumors. These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in the pancreas. Their main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level, and they are also common enough in older ferrets, even without symptoms, that if your pet is having surgery for something else, a quick check is worthwhile. Symptoms include lethargy and loss of appetite; in extreme cases seizures may be also occur. If you're more than a minute from your vet and your ferret has a low enough blood sugar level to be having seizures, call the vet and ask if you should rub Karo (corn sugar) syrup on your pet's gums to raise it. [begin BW] * Lymphosarcoma. Lymphosarcoma is the most common type of cancer in the ferret. It is a tumor of a certain type of white blood cell, and the most common clinical sign is enlargement of the lymph nodes. It may also arise in the abdomen, where lymph nodes can only be felt with reasonable accuracy by your veterinarian. It is most commonly seen in older animals from 4-6 years of age, although animals as young as a year old can have it. While animals initially respond well to chemotherapy, they usually relapse in 2 months or less, and generally are put to sleep at this time. The prognosis for any ferret with lymphosarcoma is poor. * Gastric ulcers. Ferrets may develop gastric ulcers in time o stress. Clinical signs are dark, tarry stools, a lack of appetite, and grinding of the teeth. It can be treated by your vet, but it takes 3-4 weeks to recover from this condition. You must first remove the stress from the animals environment before any recovery can begin. These animals also need good nursing care to get them back on their food. With proper care - recovery rates are over 90%. * Cutaneous vaccine reactions. Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump at the site of vaccination [see question 6.2 about other lumps]. The lump simply consists of a large area of inflammation and most commonly are seen around the neck. The lumps can be removed, and generally do not cause a major problem for your pet. Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated dogs and cats. * Helicobacter mustelae infection. Infection of the stomach lining by a bacteria, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets. Animals with longstanding infections (generally older animals), may develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease acid production in the stomach. Signs of a problem include repetitive vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers (see above). Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go hand in hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer formation has not been totally worked out, although there is currently a lot of research in this area. Helicobacter infection can be cured with administration of antibiotic and a gastric coating agent over a period of weeks. 6.3> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of them? [begin PG] Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or their eggs on your shoes or clothing. There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of fleas and ticks. It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets. In general, though, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe for ferrets. Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use anything containing organophosphates or carbamate. Be especially careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7. *** Where to get more information *** 7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area? [begin PG] An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, and organizations is maintained by STAR*Ferrets and is available by email from a list server. Send email to listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu with the line SEND FERRET DATABASE in the body. Note that the file is rather long, around 44K, which may give some mailers problems. 7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list? [begin PG] The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended. To subscribe to the FML, send a note to its moderator, Chris Lewis, at ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca and ask to be added. You'll get a note back detailing policies and such and explaining how to send letters to the list. 7.3> Is there any other information available on-line? [begin PG] Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup rec.pets. The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" is distributed there, as well. Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum. 7.4> What are some of the books available? [begin PG] Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues. Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually available in pet stores. Two of the more popular are Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton. Barron's Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985. ISBN 0-8120-2976-3 A relatively short, but well-written guide. Not as in-depth as some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets. Ferrets in Your Home, by Dr. Wendy Winsted. T.F.H. Publications, Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990. ISBN 0-86622-988-4 Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable. Includes, for instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also more expensive. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 8. *** Revision history of this file *** The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date at the top. For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the version number, but I'll always change the date. Version 1.1.1 - 3/15/94 Added section 0.3, copyright and redistribution information Version 1.1 - 1/28/94 Revised the top disclaimer and sections 1.2, 1.3, 3.4, 3.6, 3.7, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 5.3, 6.1, and 6.2 Included comments and corrections from Dr. Williams and others Version 1.0 - 12/15/93 The first "release" version, though previous ones were distributed Completely reorganized the file Edited and added to several sections Version 0.3 - 12/7/93 Version 0.2 - 11/29/93 Version 0.1 - 11/23/93 The original version.